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goop    音标拼音: [g'up]
n. 笨蛋,粘糊的东西

笨蛋,粘糊的东西

goop
n 1: any thick, viscous matter [synonym: {sludge}, {slime}, {goo},
{goop}, {gook}, {guck}, {gunk}, {muck}, {ooze}]
2: street names for gamma hydroxybutyrate [synonym: {soap}, {scoop},
{max}, {liquid ecstasy}, {grievous bodily harm}, {goop},
{Georgia home boy}, {easy lay}]


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  • Bluing Blackening of steel - Fit and Finish - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    He talks about "bluing salts" at some point, perhaps in another video I don't remember Anyone able to explain the ingredients of this "goop"? Sincerely, Alveprins
  • Canterbury knife (was Osmund knife) - Show and Tell - Bladesmiths . . .
    It's made it waterproof using a goop recipe recommended to me (beeswax boiled lineseed oil gum turpentine) I happened to already have those ingredients It has quite a potent smell It didn't change the appearance of the leather or the carvings, unlike an earlier test soaking leather in wax Making sheaths is fun
  • Quench Tank Ideas - Hot Work - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    You do not want to quench the handle tangs, so an edge quench in the goop with the handle tangs hanging down might work IF you use a steel that hardens well in goop, which limits you to an alloy slow quench steel like 5160 or O-1
  • Cutlers resin - Fit and Finish - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    If you get a good goop in the inside, it will never come off Apparently they had glue like that in the Bronze age It can get wet, but if you let it soak, it will come apart The Japanese use it for various sword parts (gluing on the kurikata and kojiri, sometimes also gluing on the fuchi and kashira) The Japanese call it nikawa
  • Issues forge welding - Hot Work - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    Are you using flux? Is the smoke goop from the MIG welder getting in between the layers? Finally, how hard are you hitting it to set the weld? If you're using flux and smacking it really hard to get the flux out, you may be blowing the weld apart on impact Gentle taps until you know it's solid
  • problems quenching into hot canola oil (400F).
    This weekend, I finally hardened a messer blade of 1075 I've been working on I have a temperature controlled heat-treating furnace (a home-made vertical 2 burner furnace with a baffle -- it heats quite evenly), and I soaked at 1475F for 3 minutes, then quenched horizontally into 400F canola oil
  • AISI 1084 carbon steel - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    I quench almost everything in a 10 year old batch of Goddard's Goop, which is an even mix of transmission fluid, lard, and paraffin wax Sets up solid at room temperature, and I usually melt some down with a scrap bar, a trough or all of it depending on the piece, which gives me a nice hot oil bath for my blades
  • Traditional Hatori Polishing Tips - Bladesmiths Forum Board
    Speaking from experience, you're not going to get a traditional polish with modern abrasives There's just something about tojiru goop, and fingerstones that does things that nothing else will My theory is that modern abrasives are too uniform and too hard to break down properly Also, don't forget to make or buy decent nugui Dry iron oxide artist pigments make a reasonable substitute If
  • Bacon Grease Quench - Metallurgy and other enigmas - Bladesmiths Forum . . .
    One of the whackier quenches I've used (I'm sorry, who can resist trying different quenching media?!) is based on Wayne Goddards Goop I used one part lard, one part paraffin and one part ATF
  • Antique Briarwood Walking Stick Sword Restoration (Very pic heavy)
    After pondering the information gleaned; I forged a tiny, spade tipped, pry bar from 1 8" high carbon steel rod stock, pressed out the indentations holding the loose cap to the stick, and inspected the wood covered in an oily looking goop that was actually dry and hard to the touch





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